Sipadan, Borneo and Singapore Trip Report

Love the response! "Where’d you go on vacation?" "Borneo!" "Wow!!! (pause) Then the inevitable: "Where is Borneo?"

The short answer: "A long way from Denver!" The real answer: "The middle of diving heaven."

What beckons divers to Borneo are more than 3,000 species of aquatic creatures. In February the rich waters around the islands of Sipadan, Mabul, and Kapalai beckoned 33 divers from Underwater Phantaseas to Sipadan Water Village on Mabul.

And what an adventure. Days were jam-packed with one incredible dive experience after another. Where else can you encounter flamboyant cuttlefish, free-swimming frogfish, schools of barracuda, and leopard sharks? In order to get a glimpse of schooling bumphead parrot fish, one morning divers braved 5:15 a.m. boats to Sipadan. Since 2004, Malaysian authorities have closely monitored the island’s dive sites in an effort to protect its pristine reefs. Only the military is allowed to overnight there and divers on surface intervals are contained to one beach area. Apparently the huge resident monitor lizard gets to go wherever he wishes!

SWV’s dive operation did an admirable job of juggling multiple boats filled with eight to 10 divers, coming and going all morning and afternoon. Many of us were doing four and five dives a day, including three boat dives and as much shore diving as our computers would allow. Divemasters rotated from group to group and impressed us with their intimate knowledge of the aquatic life. From spotlighting teeny pygmy seahorses to playing with feisty manta shrimp, they proudly showcased the area’s diverse critters.

Shore diving at SWV, particularly at night, was amazing. And we kept going back night after night. "Yes, there’s the Himalayan Sweet Lips." "Here comes the huge cuttlefish." "And, yes, there’s the crocodile fish in all his grizzly splendor."

Of course even divers cannot live by salt water alone! The SWV dining room was staffed with warm, attentive Malaysians and Phillipinos. We were spoiled with fresh fruits, grilled meats of all kinds, fresh vegetables, homemade soups, and a constant variety of Asian offerings. Our group became notorious (and beloved) with the staff because of its ability to inhale a warm fruit crumble in minutes. After a full day of diving and story swapping, a Borneo cooler or a Tiger beer tasted great before turning in.

Our island accommodations were stilted, over-water bungalows complete with comfy beds, ocean breezes, and all-night waves. Hot water, thick towels, and attentive housekeepers took great care of us. And let’s not forget Hajjah, the gifted massage therapist and her Philippino blend of Bajau bodywork enriched with local coconut oil infused with garlic and ginger.

Seven days later our waterlogged group headed out to explore Sabah’s jungle habitats (Is there life above water?). By this time the remote trip had been nicknamed "the planes, trains, and automobiles" tour. And, yes, more were involved as we overnighted in the port city of Sandakan before heading out to meet the most famous citizens of Borneo—the orangutans! Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center is home to these endearing primates, many of whom were rescued from cages, orphaned, or abandoned. They stay until they’re able to function on their own in the wild. The center’s gardens were lush and we were cautioned that we were in the primates’ territory. The orangutans were more interested in their banana brunch than interacting with us, but the neighboring Macau monkeys were a little too friendly at some points—watch out for the fuzzy guys!

After a drive through the palm plantations, we settled into the Melapi Lodge for the night. Gotta love a jungle getaway with signs that welcome you: "Danger crocodiles. No swimming." And you know they’re serious! Our pretrip information included warnings that pygmy elephants had been doing damage around the place, but (unfortunately) they’d moved on by the time we arrived.

A late afternoon rainstorm showcased the rain forest at its watery best and conveniently subsided right before we boarded boats for a dusk river tour. A rare sighting of a wild orangutan and her baby impressed even our guides. Add a ringed snake, a pack of wild pigs, several groups of Macau monkeys (are they following us?), and the evening was a success.

One last wildlife adventure was in order before we headed to the city. We journeyed out to Selingan (Turtle) Island to a turtle conservancy station. Our afternoon task was to spend some quiet time on the beach, but we had orders to clear the beach by 6 p.m. because as the sun starts to set the turtles would venture ashore to lay their eggs. About 9 p.m. the ranger’s called and said we could come watch this green turtle lay her eggs. All of a sudden we weren’t tired at all! Apparently turtles go into a trance when they’re laying so this momma had no idea she had a little crowd of onlookers, mesmerized by the process and oblivious to the falling rain. The rangers immediately took charge of her 67 eggs, we all hurried over to a fenced area (gotta watch out for those snacking monitor lizards) where the eggs were buried for safekeeping. We then formed a semicircle on the beach for 15 little hatchlings and watched them scurry into the sea. Good luck little ones!

Time to clean up and savor Singapore! A motley crew arrived at the Orchard Hotel in downtown Singapore for two nights of luxury and reentry into civilization. And what a civilization! This city is a progressive mix of Asian and European cultures. A couple of area tours—including an luxury stops at the Raffles Hotel for a legendary Singapore Sling and a seaside restaurant for an amazing seafood dinner—oriented us to the city. We then had more than 24 hours to explore and experience the city on our own. Shopping ranges from boutiques featuring any world-class designer you can imagine to tiny kiosks in Little India with handmade textiles. This was the perfect chance to regroup, reflect, and recharge before heading home.

At this point it all seems like a dream. But I know the next time someone asks, "Where is Borneo?" I can answer, "You should find out!"

Trip report by by Leslie Young-Giase